Polishing is just like bodywork/paint prep you have to level and smooth the part before you can successfully make it shiny. The biggest mistake people make when trying to polish is getting in a hurry and skipping steps. Once I work up to 1500 grit, I've got a 3" mini D/A sander/buffer that I use with Mirka Abralon wet sanding pads in 20 grit.Īfter all the sanding is done I use Wenol Metal Polish in the red tube and it comes out looking like chrome. You don't want leftover sanding residue that has rougher grit in it than the sandpaper you've moved up to you'll never get all the rougher grit scratches out without cleaning the part thoroughly. Work up through these grits, cleaning the part between steps. This is how you will know that all of the rougher sanding scratches are gone. When you move up to 320, sand from side to side until all the top to bottom sanding scratches are gone. For example, sand the part top to bottom with 220 grit until all you see are sanding scratches that go from top to bottom. Each time you change to a finer grit, also change the direction you are sanding. Once all the rough grit sanding is done, start working up to finer grit paper, making sure to get all of the previous step's sanding scratches out or they'll show up later on. If working up from 220 grit or rougher, I like to cover the part with a guide coat to make sure I've sanded out all of the previous step's sanding scratches. If using a water bucket for your wetsanding, wash out the bucket and get fresh water whenever you work up to the next finer grit. Add a little dish detergent to your water to lube the sandpaper and keep it from clogging as easily. I like 3M wetordry paper, or even better Nikken/Meguires' Unigrit paper. Once the part is leveled, then begin smoothing the finish by using progressively finer grit sand paper. If the part has already been polished but is dull/damaged, figure out an appropriate grit to remove the imperfections without creating excessively deep scratches. You don't want the reflection to be distorted. Then use 120-180 grit with a 3M Wetordry sponge pad to get the part "leveled", kinda like block sanding body filler or primer. If its a cast part that hasn't been previously smoothed/polished, I'll use a grinder with various sanding drums and flap wheels to smooth the part. Thanks! thats what i was going for.gotta be smarter than the computer eh? :D a quick search of the n numbers brought nothing of my actual project so im assuming its still in restoration. Let me figure out how to post a photo! :shock: If you have any more questions, let me know.ĭeaner wrote: well, i once had to polish an entire ww2 sea plane to chrome finish. if you finish and its still cloudy you must go back a few layers. However the part that makes the difference between cloudy and chrome, is taking the time on each grit layer. then finished with standard buffing compounds (3m)Īnd finally finished with chrome polish. I started as far as 400 grit with some of the bad pieces. Like all sanding, polishing requires removing scratches one layer at a time. (despite my warnings of hard water marks the first time they landed. Well, i once had to polish an entire ww2 sea plane to chrome finish. Not really a how-to but here's a thread with some information: For me I am almost to the point where I will need to polish up all of my rag rails and related pieces to our '57.ĭoes any one have a general practice and the compounds you use?īefore and after or even better, process pics, would be greatly appreciated. But just not as shiny as I have seen others here can seem to get on some of there pieces and parts. I have somewhat done it in the past on a few small tiny pieces just by starting from a general strip with 1200 or 600 grit light sand (ocasionally fine steel wool as well for that matter) and then just lowering the polishing grits down with few different felt pads with different compounds on them but have never gotten to any thing that I would classify as a show quality high polish, it always seems to be a bit dull in the end. Or if you just figured out a way to do it or the best practice. and while I am in this process I thought I would ask a question if there is anyone here well practiced in polishing old aluminum up. Not sure if this in the correct section maybe but.Īs some may seen recently I am kinda headlong into my 57 project. View original topic: Polishing Aluminum to Show Quality. How? Forumsįorum Index -> Body/Paint -> Polishing Aluminum to Show Quality. :: View topic - Polishing Aluminum to Show Quality.
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